Frequently asked questions

How do I decide which model and variations to choose?

Will the Shrike work for my weight?
If I increase the height of the topsides to cope with higher loads, will that change the cutting layout on the ply wood?
Why do you not fit the sheer clamps (aka carlins, sheer clamps, inwales or inner gunwales) to the topside panels before assembly? This seems simpler, and is recommended by most kit suppliers.
How do I know that my plans are printed accurately?
How do I make sure my Skeg box does not leak?
Why do you use temporary screws to hold down the deck? Other designs and kits do not suggest this is required.
Does the Shrike need the skeg?
Can I omit sheer clamps, and rely on glass tape inside and outside the deck to hull joint?
I read via the Origins page on your website that hard chine kayaks like Shrike balance quite differently from kayaks with a flatter hull. During the time I am building a Shrike, are there any exercises I can do to train for this type of balance?
Can I use cheaper plywood?

What brand deck hatches do you use?

How do you repair a hole in a compartment?
What can I use to remove excess uncured epoxy?
I dont have enough clamps, what can I use instead?
Can I get the AutoCAD DWG or DXF files?
Can I buy a Shrike Kayak built for me?
Why the name Shrike?
Why the name CNC Kayaks?
How many hours does it take to build a Shrike?

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