What Model Shrike did you choose?
I built the Shrike-R, with the shear panel reduced by 40 mm from the Shrike.

What modifications, if any, did you make to the design describer in the Build Manual
I did not use any of the suggested cockpit/coaming designs from the plans, but modified for my comfort. I am 75 years old, short, 174 lbs, and not as limber as I was in my youth, so I opened the cockpit somewhat. It most closely matches the Shrike Too design, but is 24.5” long (62.2 cm) x 18” wide (45.7 cm). The coaming was created by laminating five (5) layers of 3 mm okoume plywood for the spacers and one layer for the top piece.
I did not add a skeg, as this is strictly a rolling trainer for myself and fellow kayak club members.

What is the weight of the finished kayak?
My kayak weighs 27 lbs (12.5 kg), which includes all fittings and hardware and carbon fiber finished deck (over plywood). All panel joints were covered with 6 oz fiberglass tape inside and out. The bottom and shear panels are covered with 4 oz fiberglass and painted.

Any tips you’d like to suggest to future builders?
I have had previous experience with stitch and glue kayaks, so I was very familiar with the process. I found your plans and build manual to be excellent, and would be helpful to the most inexperienced builder.

How does the kayak perform on the water?
I belong to a kayak club with some very experienced Greenland style kayakers. They were extremely impressed with the speed, maneuverability, and rolling characteristics of the Shrike. I built the kayak for that purpose, and this is my year to finally get my roll (and recovery) perfected.

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